Focus on: Pian dell'Orino

In preparation for my new arrival on Monday (25/10/10) – the Pian dell’Orino Brunello di Montalcino 2003, I present you with a focus on the guys behind this fantastic wine:

Pian dell’Orino is one the most promising young wineries in Montalcino, located adjacent to the legendary Biondi Santi estate – the Godfather of Brunello! 

Pian dell’Orino is in the capable hands of Caroline Pobitzer and Jan Erbach. Caroline Pobitzer came to Montalcino from the vineyards of South Tyrol in Northern Italy and Jan is both wine grower and oenologist who studied in Germany before moving to France where he worked for several years, gaining valuable experience before coming to Montalcino and meeting Caroline. 

Right from the beginning Jan & Caroline studied the soil and the structure of each vineyard in order to fully understand its characteristics. Fossils, petrified shells and chalk sediment all testify to the earth’s evolutions and recount marine flooding and periods of drought in the area – quite a complex bed in which to grow vines.  Understanding the soils in which the vines are to grow is vital for Jan & Caroline – it means that they are able to make wines with a very distinct personality which reflect the innate character of each vineyard in a clear and recognisable way. The goal of Pian dell’Orino is to create and sustain the maximum harmony possible between vineyard, climate, soil and mankind.

It is owing to this philosophy that they have chosen to farm Biodynamically. For Pian dell’Orino farming is only organic if it respects and protects the complex correlations and the equilibrium of a habitat. Caroline & Jane both feel that “energy has great importance in the organisation of our daily work. In particular the phases of the moon – which affect nature and the life of all creatures, regulate growth and reinforce quality – are an important point of reference on our decision making. Our vines have never been treated with herbicides, chemical pesticides, insecticides or soluble mineral fertilisers. Their immune system is reinforced by special infusions that we make with nettles, equisetum and yarrow and biodynamic preparations. We use propolis to protect the vine from infections caused by fungi and bacteria. We plant many kinds of grasses, including aromatic varieties, in order to encourage biodiversity, maintain the contents of the humus and improve the soil structure. In our vineyards bees and butterflies have an infinite choice of beautiful flowers.” 

Pian dell’Orino feel that rigorous respect for organic criteria allows them to grow and pick grapes that are of higher quality than normal – and from these – they are able to obtain wines of extraordinary quality.  Indeed, quality is the by-word for Pian dell’Orino, they only grow the superior Sangiovese grosso and that yield is limited to a bottle per vine.  All of the harvest is done by hand and the final selection takes place on a large table, before the grapes are placed in the de-stemmer and, at last, into the barrels for vinification. The fermentation at Pian dell’Orino is induced by naturally occurring yeasts from the grape skins. Spontaneous fermentation starts between one and three days from the harvest, depending on the vintage. No extra yeasts, no industrial enzymes or further additives are used.

Macerations are long and the wines are not filtered or fined and the use of sulphur is kept to an absolute minimum.  When in cask the wines are continually checked to see how they are developing.

So – what about the wine?  Well, the Pian dell’Orino Brunello di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Before harvest, the grapes are individually checked on the vines and cluster thinning is done. During harvest, the grapes are checked once more on a large table before being destalked and placed in the fermentation bins. Then the grapes are left to macerate for a certain period, according to the vintage. Spontaneous fermentation starts and the temperature is automatically controlled so that it does not exceed 34°C.

The must macerates for three to five weeks, depending on the vintage, in order to obtain greater concentration and

structure in the young wine. The wine is then transferred to wooden oak barrels of 25 hectolitres where the malolactic

fermentation takes effect. After 2 - 3 years of maturing in the barrels, when the wine becomes stabilized and appears

brilliant, it is bottled without filtration. The wine is left to mature in the bottle for at least one year before labelling and

release.

The wine itself:

What does it taste like?  Well the 2003 Brunello di Montalcino was divine!  It was dense and muscular with aromas of wild herbs such as thyme but not without lots of finesse.  Multi-layered and complex with liquorice, minerals and cherry all evolving over a silky yet structured palate.  Incredibly complex, poised, elegant, weighty, fresh and BALANCED.  Beautiful.

This wine will drink well for another 10 years.

What does it cost?  The price will be £40.99 but it is worth every penny!