So - I managed to sneak on to the tasting last night with Gordon Lawrence - the Sommelier from Fifteen Cornwall due to a last minute space becoming available. I closed the shop at just gone 6pm and got the day's washing up done (such a glamorous life) and then did some tidying before I headed over to the Hall for Cornwall so I could lend a hand to set-up.
I'd never met Gordon before but I have met LOTS of sommeliers before (get ready for an off the tangent digression!). In my experience, as I alluded to yesterday, all of the British guys and gals doing this job have been really nice people - some from other nationalities less so. I know this may seem like a gross generalisation but this is just how it has been. Being in the trade and maybe not fitting your stereo-typical profile of a wine merchant (I don't own ANYTHING made from tweed) I often pass under the radar of other wine trade professionals. When I was living in London I took Cathy out for a meal at the OXO tower as a bit of a birthday treat. The (French) sommelier could not have been ruder or more pompous. Cathy and I were keen for different meals (fish vs steak) so we were drinking wine by the glass instead of sharing a bottle. I therefore asked the Sommelier what the blend of the house red wine was as Cathy wanted a seafood starter but wanted a red wine. None of the other reds by the glass suited seafood (all far too heavy) so I though the house red might do the trick - the sommeliers reply was a VERY gallic shrug, a look that said I was an uncouth oaf and a verbal response of "I don't know" - as if I was wasting his time - before he turned his back on us and ignored us for the rest of the evening . I HATE THIS ATTITUDE IN WINE. I of course didn't jump up and exclaim my credentials to him I just got on and enjoyed my evening and put a mental black mark against him.
Anyway, imagine my delight a few weeks later when I was invited to a vertical tasting dinner of Quinta do Vale Meao (one of Portugal's top red wines) and found myself seated next to the buyer for Harvey Nicholls (owners of the OXO tower restaurant)! When I mentioned I had recently eaten at the OXO tower he asked me what I thought. Well let me tell you - I certainly didn't hold back in views! Summary - lovely meal spoiled by one of the rudest sommeliers I've ever met! Revenge served cold anyone?
Enough of that - back to one of the good guys. The wines that Gordon chose were his a selection of his favourites as opposed to just giving us a precis of the Fifteen wine list (although no doubt some are were listed by fifteen). I liked this approach as I immediately felt that it was a proper tasting as opposed to a sales pitch. The wines on show were dominated by Italy (7 out of 8) with the rogue being from Alsace. I was personally delighted at this as Italy and Alsace tend to be very well regarded in the trade and offer something of great interest. Italy in particular is so interesting because of its diversity and difficulty to "pigeon-hole". I am also acutely aware of what is appealing to a member trade is not always the same for a consumer (as I am sure Gordon is too) so I also admired his choice for that reason too (not just playing for the gallery).
The tasting was the busiest I've seen and Gordon started off by giving us a quick intro of himself and how he has ended up where he is and we then launched into the wines. First up was a Friulano - this was a very nice wine with a pleasant herbaceous character with some rich creamyness. It had wonderful poise and fantastic weight and good balancing acidity. Off to a good start!
Next up were 2 Soave's from 2 very different producers. 1 from Pieropan and the other from Anselmi. These provided the perfect contrast and really made an impression on the attendees. How can two things that are the
same be so different?! The Pieropan was my favourite (my white of the night) as it offered an
edge. It had a lovely golden colour (has seen some oak) and the nose was rich with contrasting honey and grapefruit notes with a very light hint of oxidation (which I really like) that led on to a lovely long savoury finish. The Anselmi was much more modern and rounder from a very ripe 2009 vintage. It was a wine that was very nice indeed but for me was more
commercial. If it came down to selling it I would go for the Anselmi all day, but for my own enjoyment I'd go for the Pieropan - this illustrates a key role in a wine buyers job - you aren't necessarily buying to satisfy your own tastes. I like the interest factor that the Pierpoan offered - it was different, much less commercial and PROUD of the fact.
The final white was a Riesling Grand Cru from the Cave de Hunawihr - very nice but a bit too young for my tastes. I'd like to retaste in a year or two.
For the reds we started with a Dolcetto d'Alba. This was very nice with lots of bitter cherry (lots of Black Forset Gateau flavours). The palate was youthful and tight and it maybe suffered a little from following hot on the heels of the Riesling. Still, a very nice wine though. Next up was a Barbera d'Alba from Vajra - quite a well-known quality producer. This wine showed very well with lots of dark fruits, touch of coffee but with great depth and also freshness - I really enjoyed this dark but fresh character.
My favourite red (to my surprise!) was the Marion Valpolicella Superiore 2004 (I scored this 17 as with the Pieropan - a VERY high score for me). I've struggled with
modern Valpolicella as it has got very expensive recently and I've struggled to see why at times. Well this was a great example that showed me I had been tasting the wrong stuff. It was starting to show a touch of age and had that hint of oxidation which I find helps brings out the other flavours - coffee, cherry, this wine had lots of layers. It went through a vast range where it was dark and rich with spice and dried fruits and then the freshness would come in to play. Complex and long - a very good wine. Not cheap (retail circa £20) but good.
Finally was a Chianti Classico - Very good but quite young so would benefit from more time or a hearty meal. A great example of the good side of Chianti though.
So all in it was a great tasting, very interesting and I really enjoyed the story about the Barolo! Gordon handled himself very well and handled some tricky questions admirably and he's a united fan too - what a guy - I knew he had good tastes!
Gordon helped restore my faith that there are good sommeliers out there who want to help and advise the customer and not just to "up-sell" a customer (unlike the French guy who served me at Bluebird on the King's Road once) to make sure they get the wine and overall experience they want. His attitude seemed to mirror very much my own approach in my own shop. Listen to the customer, find out what THEY want and then show it to them. After all, a happy customer is more likely to come back and to recommend you to others. I often "down-sell" a customer if I think the wine will suit them better.